We’ll Always Have Paris, France

Paris might be the most Marmite city there is, sparking either swooning adoration or eyerolls of disdain. Bring it up in conversation, and you’re likely to trigger a lover’s quarrel of passion and protest in equal measure.

For me, Paris has always held a certain je ne sais quoi. Call it a situationship if you will; a flirtation without the commitment, an ‘I can do better’ that somehow still keeps me coming back for more. And hey, I’m a glutton for punishment.

If you’ve ever visited, you probably know the cookie-cutter route: ticking off Notre Dame, the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe, the Sacre Coeur and of course, the cherry on top—the Eiffel Tower. Now, this isn’t to say that’s the wrong way to ‘do’ Paris. But if, like me, you’ve seen these iconic landmarks before, why not skip the sights in favour of slowing down and appreciating everything else the city has to offer?

Read any guide and you’ll find the same suggestions: stick to the central arrondissements to make getting around easier. Cue the usual “Le Marais and Montmartre are both beautiful places to base yourself.” Sure, they are. But in my opinion, you can’t go wrong with the 9th, 10th or 11th. They might require a metro ride or two, but if you’ve ever survived London’s maze of tunnels, Paris will be a breeze.

We stumbled upon a top-floor mezzanine apartment beside Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, a place that feels a world away from the Paris I thought I knew.

Now, I like to think I know a thing or two about pastries; fish will walk before I skip my Sunday morning sweet treat. And in this area, you’re truly spoilt for choice. Meander through the Parc towards Laumière, where local runners weave between the path’s offshoots, and you’ll soon stumble across Bulle Boulangerie. Head uphill towards Pyrénées and dip into Milligramme along the way. The classics are hard to beat, but if you’re after something with a little more flair, you’re in the right place.

Need a caffeine fix? Stop by Mardi, fittingly named and the perfect remedy for those Tuesdays when dragging yourself from the duvet feels like a personal betrayal. And I can’t wrap up without mentioning our closest hangout, Botza. With a great atmosphere from dawn till dusk, it’s ideal for a morning espresso and even better when you return for pizza later on.

From Buttes-Chaumont, you’re only a leisurely thirty-minute stroll from Canal Saint-Martin. Head there for golden hour and share a bottle of wine by the water. If you’re feeling extra prepared, pack a baguette, a wedge of French cheese, some saucisson, and a handful of tomatoes and grapes for the perfect Parisian picnic. If you’re anything like me, you’ll spend most of the evening watching people drift past in the canal’s reflection, all while convincing yourself that, yes, you could totally see yourself living here.

I might be swallowing my words now, but with a few days in Paris, it’s still worth exploring some of the swoon-worthy neighbourhoods. The Latin Quarter is always a good idea, especially with a pitstop at the Luxembourg Gardens. And yes, even Montmartre—though I’d recommend starting with a detour to the famous Saint-Ouen flea market, unless you’re planning to buy up the place. To capture the real essence of Montmartre, head towards the back of the Sacre Coeur for secluded, ivy-covered streets and stop for a glass of wine to soak it all in.

While you’ll definitely hear a few die-hards swear off the Eiffel Tower, if you’re smart about it, you can catch the sparkle without the chaos. Head to the waterfront at Port Debilly, bottle of wine in hand, and you’ve got yourself a front-row seat to the main event. You’ll avoid any overpriced tourist traps, and probably have a better view too.

When it comes to dinner, you’re spoilt for choice. But for me, Bastille takes the cake (or cocktail). You’ll find some of the best spots tucked around here, and it doesn’t hurt that you can roll yourself down to the Bassin d’Arsenal afterwards for a nightcap by the water. We spent a dreamy few hours outside Louloute, grazing on small plates, knocking back dangerously good cocktails, and soaking up the jazz drifting out from the bar. Belleville’s another go-to; a little scruffier, a little cooler, and just the right mix of lively and local.

Paris, as ever, kept me guessing and just smug enough to feel like I cracked a bit of its code. It’s not about doing it all. It’s about doing what feels good, at the right pace, with a pastry in hand. I’ll be back, probably still pretending I could live there, and probably still avoiding the Eiffel crowds… mostly.