Seeking Sicily, Italy

Sicily, a smorgasbord of chaos and beauty in equal measure. An estranged cousin to the mainland, this little island is a tapestry of Arabian and Spanish influences, seamlessly woven into its deep Italian roots.

Across ten days, we made our way from the capital of Palermo to Catania on the eastern coast. Touching down just a little before midnight, we hopped on a train to reach our first stop.

The agenda for the next day? Mangiare. Prepare to unbutton your jeans as you wander through the maze of markets; street food is the Sicilian speciality: fat, fried and full on. Local specialties include arancine, sfincione pizza, panelle, cazilli, and for the brave, pani ca’meusa, or veal offal. For something sweet, treat yourself to a decadent brioche col gelato, or, in the cooler winter months, a ricotta-filled cannolo.

After indulging in one of Palermo’s four bustling markets—Ballaró, Capo, Vucciria, or Borgo Vecchio, it’s time to walk off your food coma. Weave through the city’s diverse districts, taking in the striking architecture along the way. If you fancy escaping the sun for an hour, dip into an Opera dei Pupi performance, a popular puppet show originating in the 1800s and now declared a UNESCO masterpiece of oral and intangible heritage.

As the sun sets, head to the Kalsa district, one of the city’s oldest quarters dating back to the Islamic period, now alive with bars and vibrant street art. A little closer to the centre, but hidden away from the main crowds, Dal Barone is the perfect place to end your day. Grab a street-side perch, a glass of wine and watch the evening unfold.

On your second day, grab a pastry and wash down with an espresso before exploring more of the beautiful architecture. The Santa Caterina Church can’t be missed. Tick off must-sees including the Palermo Cathedral, Piazza Pretoria and the Teatro Massimo. Before long, it’ll be time to repack your bags and jump into a car for the first stretch of your road trip.

Driving in Sicily certainly isn’t for the faint-hearted, but you’ll soon be used to the car-horn blare—Italy’s unofficial soundtrack to the roads. Ease into it with a quick detour to Scopello, a gorgeous little village tucked away into the rugged coastline. Cool off in crystal clear waters, with the most picturesque swim spot just a short stroll from the main tonnara.

Drag yourself away from the stunning scene (if you can) and continue on to your next stop: San Vito Lo Capo. Just as beautiful, though slightly larger than the nearby Scopello, this petite coastal town is set upon a long stretch of soft white sand. The epitome of dolce far neinte, spend long days soaking in the sunshine and diving into the sea to cool off. For the restless, there are plenty of hikes surrounding the area too, each offering spectacular views across the bay.

After a day or two lounging, it’s time to wave goodbye to the sea—though not for long. Continuing round the island, you’ll be making your way down to Agrigento. Pop by colourful fishing town of Sciacca for a quick bite and explore a few of the quiet side streets. Look down, and you’ll likely spot ceramic tile-adorned stairs as you clock up the steps, a small but charming detail that gives the town its unique character.

After Sciacca, the landscape becomes drier, dustier, and golden. Arriving in Agrigento feels like stepping into an open-air museum, and in many ways, you are. The Valley of the Temples is the main draw, a sprawling archaeological site that gives Athens a run for its money. Get there late afternoon to miss the tour groups and watch the sun cast a warm glow over the ruins just before it sets. With your morning free, head over to Scala dei Turchi and bathe on the striking chalk-white cliff face.

When you’re not temple-gazing or hitting up the beach, explore the historic centre—compact, sun-bleached, and slow-paced. Stop for a granita on a shaded terrace, and watch local life unfold in languid, familiar rhythms. It’s a good spot to catch your breath before heading further east.

The penultimate stop on our journey, Syracuse blends ancient history with coastal chic. Base yourself in Ortigia, the island heart of the city, where tangled alleyways open onto glimmering sea views. This is the place for aimless wandering. Expect peeling baroque facades, linen shirts hung out to dry, and the clink of Aperol spritzes at golden hour. Don’t miss the Duomo di Siracusa, a striking cathedral built atop the ruins of an ancient Greek temple.

Take a dive from one of the sun-warmed decks, or explore deep-blue caves by boat. In Ortigia, life moves slowly: mornings at the buzzing food market, afternoons spent dipping in and out of boutiques and sea coves, and evenings under fairy-lit piazzas.

From calm to chaos, Taormina is Sicily turned up to eleven. Dramatic clifftop views, polished piazzas, designer boutiques, and the ever-present Etna looming in the background. Yes, it’s touristy—but for good reason. Soak in the panorama from the Teatro Antico, then make your way to Isola Bella for a swim. The island’s private nature reserve, connected to the mainland by a sliver of pebbled shoreline, is small but wildly scenic.

Set your alarm early. Hiking Mount Etna is a must, but skip the cable cars, jeeps, and selfie spots. Instead, opt for a sunrise tour across the quieter North side. You’ll experience the volcanic landscape in near solitude, crossing old lava flows and cratered terrain while the first light slowly spills over the slopes.

For something quieter—and more cinematic—take the winding road to Savoca, one of the filming locations for The Godfather. It’s all stone churches, quiet corners, and haunting hillside views. Less flash, more soul. Grab a coffee at Bar Vitelli and pretend you’ve stepped into Coppola’s world.

While we crammed as much as we could into two weeks, Sicily still holds plenty of secrets. Next on my list? The Aeolian Islands—the perfect place to slow down, chase sunsets, and play mermaids in the shallows.