You never forget your first… season.
While France often steals the limelight with some of the largest ski areas in the world, Austria is where the real magic happens – just ask anyone who’s seen Chalet Girl. And if they disagree? Chances are, they just haven’t had the chance to visit.
Spanning 305km, St Anton isn’t just about vast ski terrain. From its legendary après-ski to snow-globe village scenes, even spending ten months over two years in these mountains wasn’t enough to take it all in. As this season’s halfway mark approaches, I find myself reminiscing – consider this my official application should the Arlberg region ever need an ambassador…
To this day, my stomach churns at the thought of sitting on a coach, navigating winding, mountain passes up towards the French Alps. You might expect the same of St Anton but the journey completely sneaks up on you – a smooth sailing through from Friedrichshafen or Innsbruck airport. You can even arrive via train, rolling into centre of resort (and next to one of my favourite casual restaurants – complete with rock-climbing wall, Skiing Buddha) in just over an hour from Innsbruck.
The town itself revolves around two main areas: Galzig, the bustling heart of the resort, and the quieter Nasserein, both home to key lifts leading toward Lech. From the Galzig lift, a short walk across the road takes you to the Rendl area – an often forgotten, not-quite-hidden gem. Whether you’re a park-rat or powder-hound, these pistes are often far quieter than the opposite side of the mountain. Plus, the ‘beach’ terrace is the perfect spot to soak up the late-afternoon sun and refuel with a pint of Stiegl Radler.
When browsing accommodation options, you can’t really go wrong – access to the slopes is never more than a ten-minute walk. During both of my seasons in St Anton, I shared a small apartment above the supermarket Billa, which meant a short and convenient stroll in either direction to reach the lifts. But if bars, restaurants, and shops are your priority, staying closer to the Galzig side of town is your best bet.
Of course, no trip to St Anton is complete without a day in Lech. While it’s skiable (though not the most snowboarder-friendly), the morning rush can turn the slopes into a battlefield, with many a fallen soldier strewn across the runs. Set your alarm and hop on one of the free ski buses (No. 760), which run regularly in the morning toward Lech and Zürs.
Once across, take advantage of queue-free lifts and lap a few freshly groomed pistes (Bridget Jones fans, don’t miss the Fettnäpfchen lift and the Schlegelkopf downhill run—if you know, you know!) Or, for some of the best terrain in the region, head over to Warth – home to incredible runs and a key section of the ‘Run of Fame.’ While you’re here, refuel at the Rud Alpe with my favourite Austrian speciality, Kaiserschmarrn—a mouth-watering icing-sugar coated plate of pancakes, served with a plum sauce.
Keep an eye on the clock and start your pilgrimage back to St Anton before 3pm. to dodge the worst of the queues—and to snag a prime spot at our first après destination: Taps/Krazy Kanguruh. Cheek to cheek, Taps is the seasonnaires’ go-to haunt, while KK’s tends to draw a slightly more touristy crowd. That said, even as seasonnaire’s, you’d find us dancing on tabletops and belting out Johnny Däpp on a weekly basis.
Once you’ve had your fill here, descend just a few metres to the main event—MooserWirt, where the party follows a groundhog-day routine of beer-soaked madness until 8pm. If that still did satisfy your wild side, or if you’d rather change out of your ski boots before any après-accidents occur, try Basecamp at the foot of the slopes for thumping tunes. Try a sip of Stroh80 if you dare!
While St Anton and its connected ski areas have more than enough runs to wear your legs out in a week, those seeking solitude should consider a trip to Sonnenkopf. Aptly named for its sun-soaked slopes, the area is typically favoured by families. But the off-piste? Aside from Rendl, this village resort is a top choice for powder snow seekers.
If you’re up for the adventure, find your ski legs en route to Stuben before hopping on the bus outside Hotel Alte Post (No. 90). While it may seem like a bit of a trek, it’s well worth the effort to escape the crowds.
Skiing will likely be your main vocation, especially if you’re just visiting for the week, but an unexpected snow flurry can make conditions tricky. While I’m not opposed to battling icy winds and dizzying whiteouts, sometimes it’s the signal I need to sit out the afternoon! Instead of wallowing, though, you can explore the vibrant town and its many ‘off-piste’ activities. During my second season, the Arlberg Leisure Centre practically became my second home. A long soak is the best cure for worn-out muscles, and watching the snowfall outside can turn minutes into hours. Just remember—Austrians take their saunas very seriously…
Maxed out on TLC? Test out your strength rock climbing, take a day trip to Innsbruck or simply simple stroll through the high-street (ideal for hunting out the bets fridge magnet!); the options are endless. And don’t overlook the Verwall area—with its gorgeous frozen lake and hidden huts, it’s the perfect setting for a scenic yet gentle hike.
Finally, I can’t write about St Anton without mentioning a few of the must-visit spots in town. While the high-street itself is rather compact, it’s overflowing with bars and restaurants. I have to admit, and I’m rather ashamed as a massive foodie, that my restaurant knowledge off the slopes is a little limited. But bars? I’m an expert. To save you the search, Scotty’s, Anthony’s, Bobo’s and Keller Bar are some of the best, to name a few.
Under oath, I can’t reveal every seasonnaire secret… but St Anton serves as a skiers paradise and a week on these slopes is not nearly enough to discover all it has to offer. Living in the winter-obsessed side of my mind, the month’s I spent in this alpine resort’s bubble have me chasing to get back soon.
Annabel Britton 
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